Dining

Dining in Telluride and the Mountain Village is as much of an inspiring experience as the skiing and riding. It's hard not to have a good meal here, even in the simpler restaurants and cafes. The fine restaurants here have raised the bar for Colorado mountain cuisine.

In town
An award-winning wine list, elegant surroundings and superb New American creations make Harmons (728-3773; $$$) in the old train depot a perennial favorite. The menu oten changes, but don't be surprised to find that the chef serves seared scallops with clementine, jicama and cashews; blends quinoa, garlic spinach and sweet carrot sauce with polenta; and layers a mango crisp plantain Napoleon…with coconut sorbet.

Chef-owner Mark Reggiannini and his wife Mairen have taken over La Marmotte (728-6232; $$$; above) after the death of its longtime owner. It continues to serves French cuisine, but with a modern twist that's influenced by both the chef's New England roots and regional products. 221 S. Oak (it's both the name and address; 728-9507; $$$), in a peach-walled Victorian house, is subtly chic with regional American dishes that vary nightly according to the freshest ingredients available.

Chef-owner Chad Scothorn, known for making Beano's in Vail such a treasure, is at the helm of The Cosmopolitan & Tasting Cellar (728-1292; $$$; right) in the Hotel Columbia at the gondola base. His eclectic American fare is influenced by French, Southwestern and Thai flavors and served in generous portions. Downstairs a six-course, prix-fixe dinner can be arranged for private groups of 10 or more in the climate-controlled wine cellar. Rustico Ristorante (728-4046; $$–$$$), on Telluride's main street, is run by Italian natives and has authentic food at good prices. In addition to pasta, it serves homemade foccacia and a tiramisu worth the fat grams. You can even practice your grazies and pregos with the waiters.

Dine on seafood and steaks at The Bluepoint Grill (123 So. Oak St, 728-8862; $$), then go downstairs to The Noir Bar, a cozy after-hours martini and wine lounge with leather and faux-fur furniture. New Sheridan Chop House (728-9100; $$$) has a relationship with Niman Ranch, known for delectable naturally-raised meats, so it's no surprise that the beef, pork and lamb dishes here are excellent. It's a delightful extra that the seafood and wild game are just as tasty.

Excelsior Cafe (728-4250; $$) has good-value North Italian cuisine and a special late-night menu. Sofio's (728-4882; $$; below left) is a long-time Mexican tradition, but be prepared for a wait. It's worth it-have a margarita. The only brewpub in town is Smuggler's (728-0919; $–$$) on the corner of San Juan and Pine, where pub grub is served in an historic mining warehouse. Friday and Saturday nights are "Rib Nights" with prime rib or baby back ribs. Shanghai Palace (728-0882; $$) has a huge Chinese menu.

Whether you're looking for French pastries, Belgian chocolates, homemade soups and sandwiches, or an apres-ski glass of wine, you'll find it at Wildflour (728-8887; $–$$), a gourmet bakery in Camel's Garden Resort Hotel by the gondola. Baked in Telluride (738-4775; $–$$), known by its acronym B-I-T, is a 25-plus-year-old bakery in a century-old warehouse on South Fir Street. It's great for pastries (especially the chocolate eclairs), bagels, deli sandwiches, handmade pasta and pizza.

Coffeehouses have hit Telluride bigtime and visitors have several from which to choose: The Steaming Bean, Maggie's, and Between the Covers Book Store are all located on Colorado Avenue.

In the Mountain Village
Indulge in the exquisite cuisine at Allred's (728-7474; $$$) while you drink in the staggering views from 10,551 feet above sea level. The magnificent timber-and-stone dining room with towering windows overlooks the 14,000-foot peaks that surround Telluride and the historic town twinkling 1,800 feet below. The menu changes frequently, but expect inspirational dishes. You'll either get drunk by the natural high or by choosing from the 8,000 bottles in the wine cellar. A special tasting menu is a treat for guests who wish to pair a selection of fine wines with several signature dishes.

The Inn at Lost Creek houses a restaurant named for Mountain Village's altitude, 9545 (728-6293; $$–$$$). Specializing in organic cuisine for both lunch and dinner, it boasts the most extensive single-malt scotch selection in Telluride. La Piazza del Villaggio (728-8283; $$–$$$; right) is the sister to Rustico in town. Same family, same great food. That Pizza Place ($–$$) is a funky pizzeria at the base of the village gondola that serves Sicilian-style pizza, deli sandwiches and salads. Open for lunch, apres-ski and dinner.

Legends ($–$$), in The Peaks, is open for breakfast and lunch only. It serves light fare, grilled specialties and great burgers. The Express Skiers luncheon buffet makes a quick and healthy lunch. Golden Spa cuisine also is available here.

The Telluride Coffee Company began as a coffee cart in the village and has grown to an indoor location-just steps away from the slopes. Choose from traditional coffee and espresso drinks, chai tea, iced coffee, juices, sodas and fresh pastries. The old coffee cart in Heritage Plaza is still open for a rich cup of joe on the go. Skiers Union at the bottom of the Village chair has great juices and coffee.

On-mountain
Gorrono Ranch, mid-mountain on Misty Maiden, is a restored Basque sheepherder's homestead with American favorites and delicious barbecue on a sunny deck known as "the Beach." Giuseppe's, at the top of the Plunge lift, is the place for Italian fare with killer views. Big Billie's, named after the town's madame who died in 1957, specializes in southwestern and barbecue at the base of the Chondola and Sunshine chair.

Dining Legend: $$$$–Entrees $30+; $$$–$20–$30; $$–$10–20; $–less than $10