Sugarloaf is compact, but it has 18 eateries that range from pizza and burgers to fine dining. The best part is many offer ski-in/ski-out lunches, a big plus for those who dislike crowded base lodges. Year after year, the most dependable sit-down restaurants in the region are The Bag, Gepetto's, Hug's and Tufulio's; see descriptions below. Others come and go or their reputation changes with the current chef. For dinner, reservations are essential on weekends, holidays and special events. If you're visiting Sunday through Thursday, ask where the two-for-one specials are that night.

SUGARLOAF DINING AND NIGHTLIFE PAGES

The Double Diamond Steakhouse (237-222; $$$$) in the Grand Summit Resort Hotel serves excellent steaks, fresh fish and pasta dishes with an excellent wine list.

On Wednesdays, Saturdays and more often during holiday time, Sugarloaf's on-mountain restaurant, Bullwinkle's (237-6939; $$$$), undergoes a transformation to an almost-elegant retreat. The price includes a snowcat ride to the restaurant and a four-course candlelight dinner.

While food in the base lodge is pretty good, it adds up very quickly. Unusual for a New England ski resort are the independent restaurants located in the base village; these provide more bang for the buck. Both Gepetto's (237-2192; $–$$) and The Bag (237-2451; $–$$) are perennial favorites for lunch and dinner. Gepetto's has the more varied menu, with soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees served in a light- and plant-filled atrium, by the bar and upstairs. The Bag, a brewpub, is THE place for soups, burgers and pizzas, although there's plenty more on the menu. Rate the local talent on Blues Monday, while scarfing down a Bag-burger.

D'Ellie's (237-2490; $), a small, mostly take-out bakery/deli, serves excellent homemade soups, huge sandwiches (on homemade bread) and good salads. Avoid lunch crowds by ordering in the morning for later pick-up at the Express Lane, which is also an option for soups and baked goods. It also serves the best full breakfast on the mountain. Pizza is the specialty at The Shipyard Brew Haus (237-6837; $--$$), which, of course, serves Shipyard brews. Although entrees such as Ahi tuna and lobster tail are available, it's wise to stick with the simpler offerings. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; on-mountain pizza delivery is available from 5 p.m. to midnight (237-2395). Free hors d'oeuvres are served Mon.--Thurs., during Happy Hour, from 3--6 p.m. There's evening entertainment Wed.—Fri.

For the region's best cuppa Joe and a bagel, head to Java Joes (237-3330; $).

Carrabassett Valley Aacademy grad and Olympic snowboard-cross specialist Seth Wescott purchased Theo's, with friends, in 2005 and reopened it as The Rack (237-2211; $–$$$), which was the name of the original ski shop in this Access Road location. He's won over the locals for apres-ski fun and pretty good barbecue fare.

If any restaurant gives meaning to the phrase "don't judge a restaurant by its exterior," it's Hug's (237-2392; $–$$), an extremely popular, green-and-red, hole-in-the-wall about 2 miles from the mountain's access road. Go for northern Italian food, accompanied by betcha-can't-eat-just-one-piece pesto bread and a family-style salad. Tufulio's (235-2010; $–$$), in Carrabassett Valley, is another Italian-accented locals' favorite, thanks to its wide-ranging menu (pizza to sirloin), huge portions and family friendly atmosphere (not too mention a popular Happy Hour for the middle-aged set and two-for-one Sunday specials). Also in the valley is the Carrabassett Inn (235-3888; $–$$), a good choice for burgers and pizza anytime or passable Mexican fare on Mondays.

In Kingfield, One Stanley Avenue (265-5541; $$$) is the most expensive restaurant in the region and offers the only true fine dining experience in the area. The dining room at The Herbert (265-2000; $$–$$$) is hit or miss, a better bet is fireside dining at Julia's (265-5421; $$), in The Inn on Winter's Hill; ask about wine tastings. Far less fancy is Longfellow's Restaurant & Riverside Pub (265-4394, $–$$), a local's favorite for its wide-ranging menu and good, filling food. For lighter fare, head to The Orange Cat (265-2860; $) or the Old School House Cafe & Bakery (265-2323; $). Both serve tasty homemade soups, creative sandwiches and baked goods as well as coffees and teas; the Cat opens at 7 a.m., so go for breakfast and order sandwiches to stash for later. For a serious breakfast, fill up at The Kingfield Woodsman (265-2561; $), which starts serving trucker-friendly breakfasts at 5 a.m.

About 15 minutes north of the Access Road, in the wilds of Eustis, the Porter House (246-7932; $$) draws diners from Rangeley to Quebec. Downstairs is a casual/fine-dining restaurant, serving excellent fare with a creative touch. The double pork chop, planked salmon, wasabi-and-sesame-coated tuna and, well, just about everything is fabulous. Portions are big, too. Upstairs is the Heron Pub, which serves lighter fare as well as the full menu. Tuesday night features two-fer $25 entrée choices; a real bargain. Reservations are advisable for weekends, holidays and Tuesdays. In Stratton, the $7.95 Friday night Fish Fry at the White Wolf Restaurant (246-2922, $–$$) satisfies the tummy grumblings of those on a lean budget; good burgers, too.

If you're planning on preparing your own meals, stock up on groceries at Hannaford's in Farmington for the best selection and price. Tranten's, in Kingfield, is a small grocery store with an o.k. meat and deli department. Fill in the cracks at one of three smaller grocery stores, all under the same ownership: Sugarloaf Groceries in the base village, Mountainside Grocers at the base of the access road, which has the biggest selection of the three, and Ayotte's, down valley.

Dining Legend: $$$$–Entrees $30+; $$$–$20–$30; $$–$10–$20; $–less than $10