Dining is in the midst of a renaissance in North Lake Tahoe. The old Mom'n'Pop places are giving way to some upscale gourmet eateries. All restaurants are within a half-hour drive of each other. They are listed geographically—Squaw Valley, Very North Tahoe, Tahoe City, Truckee and Incline Village.

Squaw Valley
With the new restaurants in Squaw Valley's pedestrian village added to the excellent upscale choices at the lodges here, you don't have to leave the resort to get a good meal.

PlumpJack Squaw Valley (583-1576; $$$$) is an extraordinary dining experience in a style that is as unique as the cuisine is delicious. The wine list is carefully selected and prices are very reasonable, given the high quality. Reservations suggested.

Glissandi (581-6621; $$$$) at the Resort at Squaw Creek brings New York and San Francisco style and service, all overlooking Squaw Valley. Reservations suggested. Also in the hotel, Ristorante Montagna's (581-6619) serves a California/Italian fusion cuisine. Try Graham's (581-0454; $$$) at the Christy Inn for gourmet southern European meals.

Alexander's Cafe (581-7278; $$$) at High Camp requires that guests ride the scenic cable car up 2,000 vertical feet to the top of the mountain, where they dine on a fixed-price, three-course meal overlooking Lake Tahoe.

The sushi restaurant in the village, Mamasake (584-0110; $–$$$), has become a new hotspot. It could be just because the "Eat Raw at Squaw" proposition is hard to skip but it's more likely because the food here really is good. Other new village restaurants worth a visit are High Sierra Grill (584-6100; $–$$$) for steaks and other grilled items; Tantara Bakery, Bistro and Beyond ($–$$), which transforms itself from a bakery for breakfast to a deli and bistro for lunch and dinner; and the Fireside Pizza Co. (584-6150; $$) for fancy pizzas made with sourdough crust and farm-fresh ingredients.

The Red Dog Bar & Grill, in the Far East Center at the east end of the Squaw Valley main parking lot, behind the General Store, is a Squaw Valley favorite for omelets, breakfast burritos, Eggs Benedict, traditional bacon/sausage with eggs and pancake specialties. The apres bar menu features potato skins, tri tip sandwiches, chili dogs, hamburgers, and Buffalo wings. 581-7261.

The Headwall Cafe & Bakery is open again inside the Cable Car building. It has a full espresso/coffee bar, juice and smoothie bar, homemade cinnamon rolls, bagels, and other morning pastries. Mid-day, the menu includes salads, cold and hot sandwiches, soups and daily specials. 581-2433.

Very North Lake Tahoe (Carnelian Bay, Tahoe Vista, King's Beach, Crystal Bay)
Le Petit Pier (546-4464; $$$$) in Tahoe Vista presents up-scale French cuisine. Locals refer to this restaurant as "where to go on a very special date." Reservations needed.

In Spring 2003 the Wild Goose (546-3640; $$$-$$$$), named after one of Tahoe's double-ender launches, made its debut with an interior that's reminiscent of the lake cruisers of the 1920s, replete with mahogany, leather and polished steel, plus lake views. The Paris-educated chef, whose mantra is "nuances and simplicity," uses fresh seasonal and regional ingredients to create Contemporary American cuisine that showcases a sophisticated combination of flavors and textures.

Spindleshanks (546-2191; $$$), also in Tahoe Vista, has been awarded "Best Wine List" several years in a row. The food matches at somewhat reasonable prices. The place gets packed. Call for reservations or go early. On Wednesdays, when the appetizers are half price all evening at the bar, get a spot there and order a couple to make a nice light dinner.

The Soule Domain (546-7529 or 775-833-0399; $$$) in Crystal Bay receives consistent raves from people at both ends of the lake. The menu has changed for years but it seems to work. Gar Woods Grill & Pier (546-3366; $$–$$$) in Carnelian Bay serves a California grill menu.

Lake Tahoe Brewing Company (775-831-5822; $–$$) in Crystal Bay serves the usual pub fare and fresh-brewed beer. The casinos on the Nevada border serve inexpensive breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Try Lakeview Dining Room at the Cal-Neva Resort (775-832-4000; $–$$) or the Cafe Biltmore at the Tahoe Biltmore (775-831-0660; $–$$).

In Kings Beach, Jason's Beachside Grill (456-3315; $$) has moderate fare with lots of burgers to choose from. In Tahoe Vista, Boulevard Cafe (546-7213; $$) gets regular mention from locals for good Italian-influenced meals.

For sushi head to Hiro Sushi (546-4476; $$) in Kings Beach, where you should order the all-you-can-eat menu (you only have an hour to stuff it in). The caterpillar rolls, made with eel, look just like caterpillars down to the antenna. The best Mexican in the area is La Mexicana (546-0310; $$) in Kings Beach.

Lanza's (546-2434; $–$$), an institution in Kings Beach, also has excellent Italian fare at family prices. Steamer's Beachside Bar and Oven (546-2218; $–$$) has been voted best pizza on the North Shore. Other good places for pizza are C.B's Pizza (546-4738; $) in Kings Beach and Jiffy's Pizza (546-3244; $) in Tahoe Vista.

For breakfast try the Old Post Office (546-3205; $) at Carnelian Bay and order the deluxe French toast or create your own omelet, or the Log Cabin (546-7109; $$) in Kings Beach where you can get lobster and shrimp scrambles, trout Benedict and fancy pancakes. The price bargain is breakfast at the Tahoe Biltmore ($) served 24/7.

Tahoe City and nearby
Wolfdales (583-5700; $$$$) with its frequently changing menu is superb. Claiming the food is "cuisine unique," it's essentially Asian and European with a taste of California mixed in. Reservations are suggested.

Christy Hill (583-8551; $$$$; left) is a real find. Christy Hill offers superb lake views in an intimate, casually elegant atmosphere. The menu, which changes several times each week, is loaded with the freshest fish and specialty produce. The restaurant is open for dinner only from Tuesday through Sunday. Call for reservations. Truffula (581-3362; $$$) in Tahoe City is a gourmet find. The tiny place serves "wild food from land and sea" in a modern atmosphere.

Swiss Lakewood Restaurant (525-5211; $$$) in Homewood is Lake Tahoe's oldest and one of its finest dining experiences with impeccable service. Currently closed for the 07-08 season, it plans to reopen in the summer of 2008. Cuisine is French-Swiss and classic continental. Closed Mondays, except holidays. Sunnyside (583-7201; $$$) has good meals and a great setting. The crab legs are wonderful and on Wednesdays fish tacos rule.

Yama Sushi and Robata Grill (583-9262; $$–$$$) in the Lighthouse Shopping Center is a classic sushi restaurant but it also includes grilled meats, fish and vegetables. Coyotes Mexican Grill (583-6653; $$–$$$) is recommended by return visitors and locals alike.

River Ranch (583-4264; $$–$$$) at the access road to Alpine Meadows has been there for years and still gets great reviews. In the spring sitting by the river is a joy. Another Tahoe original is the Old European Restaurant and Bar/Pfeifer House (583-3102; $$), just north of Tahoe City on the road to Alpine and Squaw, with its traditional German meals.

Fiamma (581-1416; $$), in the middle of town, has a wood-fired pizza oven. Also try Lakehouse Pizza (583-2222; $$) for a great lake view. Za's (583-1812; $$) serves moderately priced Italian.

For Mexican with a big dose of margaritas and a shoulder-to-shoulder crowd on weekends, a good choice is the Hacienda del Lago (583-0358; $) in the Boatworks Mall. If you want lots of good food at very reasonable prices, try Bacchi's (583-3324; $) for Italian or Bridgetender (583-3342; $) for great half-pound burgers and an extensive beer selection.

For breakfast head to The Fire Sign (583-0871; $), about 2 miles south of Tahoe City, where many believe the best breakfasts and lunches in the region are served, or go to Rosie's Cafe (583-8504; $), where breakfast is a locals' affair. Near Alpine Meadows, try The Alpine Riverside Cafe (583-6896; $–$$) for breakfast and lunch.

Truckee
Several recommended restaurants line Truckee’s Commercial Row, the downtown walking district. One of Truckee’s most highly recommended restaurants is Dragonfly (530-587-0557; $$$), which promises “dining on a higher level.” That can be interpreted in several ways: location--it's upstairs, with pleasant views over downtown; cuisine--the upscale, Asian-fusion menu may include such intriguing choices as ginger lacquered muscovy duck legs or Thai tamarind fishermen's stew; or commitment--it adds $1 to every bill to support the local land trust, nice touch.

Farther east on the street is Pianeta (530-587-4694; $$$), an intimate restaurant with a combined nouveau and classic Italian menu: from olives and antipasto to mushroom dumplings, pasta with roasted eggplant to basic spaghetti. The same owners also run the Pacific Crest (530-587-2626; $-$$), attached to the Bar of America. This Victorian-styled restaurant has an international menu with dishes from several countries: Soba noodles with ginger stir-fry, lamb shank over couscous, risotta, paella, and more. Wood-fired pizza will keep the kids happy. Moody's (587-7619; $$$$) in the Truckee Hotel has a playful menu that will make gourmands smile: crispy pig trotters, poached duck egg, a foie gras “short stack,” veal sweetbreads, and the like. The restaurant supports sustainable farming in California—“Seasonal, simple, local, fresh,” reads the menu. It's also a favorite for Sir Paul McCartney—he's even done an impromptu performance here.
 
West of the walking district along the road to Donner Pass are more local favorites. Family owned and operated for more than 35 years, El Toro Bravo (530-587-3557; $) has an excellent reputation for Mexican cuisine, with fajitas topping the menu. Mention Thai Nakorn (530-550-0503; $-$$) to locals, and they swoon. The soups are delightful but the Pad Thai bland. Get here early as the place is small or order take out. Java Sushi (530-582-1144; $$) serves what its name implies. Try the Saturday Night Special served every night. They also serve tempura, teriyaki and broiled salmon.
 
Overlooking downtown is the perennially popular Cottonwood (530-587-5711; $$-$$$). Big windows in the main dining room frame downtown Truckee, below, and historic photos and artifacts, from the building's first life as a ski lodge, fill the rooms. Cozy up to the fireplace in the pub, where there’s acoustic music; relax in the adjacent bar; or reserve a table in the more formal (relatively speaking) main dining room, with white lights strung across the high ceiling. Menu ranges from cassoulet to Thai red-curry prawns.

Pick up dinner-to-go from the prepared foods at Piper’s Patisserie (530-582-2256, $-$$), a gourmet deli and wine store with casual seating. Fabulous baked goods, creative dinner fare, salads, sandwiches and some of the fanciest ice cream we’ve ever seen.

For breakfast, go early to the The Squeeze In (587-9814; $$), where the list of omelets requires a speed-reading course. The place has all the atmosphere you could want in a breakfast joint, built in a former alley and only 10 feet wide. On weekends, expect to wait a while—this place is popular.

Northstar-at-Tahoe Resort
Not content to rest on their laurels, the chefs at Northstar's restaurant, True North Restaurant and Bar (562-2250; $$$), decided to reinvent themselves with a new menu, new name and refurbished interior. Consistently one of Tahoe's best restaurants and recipient of the "Wine Spectator" Award of Excellence, it now showcases sustainable food choices using Niman Ranch all-natural beef and pork, fresh organic produce and Monterey Bay Aquarium-approved seafood flown in daily from Honolulu. Wine recommendations are listed with each entree.

Incline Village
On the northeastern side of the lake, in Incline Village, go to The Lone Eagle Grille at the Hyatt Regency (775-832-3250; $$$$) for some of the best food on the Nevada lakeshore. The soaring stone and timber and the massive fireplace blend with magnificent views across the lake at sunset, and the cuisine and wine list provide accomplished accompaniment.

Le Bistro (775-831-0800; $$$$), across the street from the Hyatt Regency, is considered the best restaurant on the lake by some locals. As the name implies, the focus is on French fare.

The Big Water Grille (775-833-0606; $$$), at the bottom of the hill at Diamond Peak, is another find. A Native American name for Lake Tahoe, the Big Water features an eclectic menu and spectacular lake views—the perfect setting for romantic dinners, apres-ski relaxation and group gatherings. The menu features American Contemporary cuisine with Mediterranean and Pacific-Rim influences.

Cafe 333 (775-832-7333; $$$), written up in Bon Appetit several times, is favored by Incline locals. It has French country decor and a moderately priced menu. The Wild Alaskan Fish Company (775-832-6777; $$) is one of the top spots for excellent seafood on the lake. It's just plain good.

Ciao Mein Trattoria (775-832-3275; $$) in the Hyatt has a menu that is half Italian and half Chinese. Azzara's (775-831-0346; $–$$) serves good, reasonable Italian food. Austin's (775-832-7778; $) gets raves for meatloaf and homemade soups. T's Rotisserie (775-831-2832; $–$$) gets the nod from knowledgeable locals for chicken and burritos. Hacienda de La Sierra (775-831-8300; $) is a top Mexican spot. China Wok (775-833-3633; $–$$) is the only true Chinese place in town.

Wildfire Cafe ($) is an Incline institution for breakfast.

Reno, Nevada, has an exceptional collection of restaurants for those staying in the Biggest Little City in the World.

Dining Legend: $$$$–Entrees $30+; $$$–$20–30; $$–$10–20; $–less than $10