South Shore accommodations divide into four categories: the multistory casinos hugging the Nevada border for great views and nonstop nightlife; the top of Kingsbury Grade, near the base of Heavenly's Nevada side, for upscale condominiums and top-quality hotels; along the California lake shore for moderately priced motels; and at Kirkwood to escape the hustle and bustle.

At the mountain
If you want big-mountain skiing and a get-away-from-it-all location, stay slopeside at Kirkwood. The village has many recently built condos, shops, and services such as an ice rink and recreation center/swim complex. Phase One of the village is now complete and includes Snowcrest Lodge, The Mountain Club and the Lodge at Kirkwood. Just completed in 2002 is the Meadow Stone Lodge, just steps from the lifts. Perhaps the best part about the new village is that it's, well—new. All the rooms feature modern interiors, have a prime location on the slopes and make efficient use of space. Of the other condo-complexes on the Meadow Side, the top choice is Sun Meadows, which is across from the Solitude and Cornice chairs and about as centrally located as you can get in Kirkwood. The second choice is The Meadows, between Timber Creek and the Cornice Chair. Rates range from $160–$299 for a studio to $555–$699 for a three-bedroom condo. Packages—particularly midweek stays—bring down the cost. Reservations: (209) 258-7000 or (800) 967-7500.

Near the mountain
For a classic Sierra experience, book a cabin at Sorensen's Resort (800-423-9949; 530-694-2203; $$–$$$$). Nestled beneath a cliff in the Hope Valley 14 miles from Kirkwood, Sorensen's is a secluded, quiet camp bustling with winter activity, including cross-country skiing.

On Tahoe's South Shore
Central Reservations for South Lake Tahoe is (800) 288-2463. If you can stay Sunday through Thursday nights, you can get extremely good deals. Lodging and lift packages can run as low as $69 per person, per night, double occupancy. If you're here Friday and Saturday, however, prices double or sometimes triple. South Shore has a wide variety of lodges and prices, however, so tell the agent how much you want to spend.

Many destination visitors like to be smack in the middle of the action. If you're in that group, try Harveys Resort & Casino (800-648-3361 from outside Nevada or 775-588-2411 from Nevada; $$–$$$; above right) and Harrah's Casino Hotel (800-648-3353; 775-588-3515; $$–$$$$), which have everyone's highest ratings, from AAA to Mobil. Other casino-hotels within walking distance of the state line are the Montbleu Resort Casino and Spa (888-829-7630; 775-588-3515; $$-$$$$), which has undergone such an elegant and modern makeover, you would never believe it had once been the Caesar's Tahoe, and the Horizon Casino Resort (800-648-3322; $$–$$$$). Ask for a lakeview room with a balcony at the Horizon.

On the California side, several beautiful hotels have been built in the past few years. The Marriott Grand Residence Club (866-204-7263; $$–$$$$) is in the Heavenly Village development at the base of Heavenly's gondola. It features in-suite kitchens, laundry service, a ski-check room, as well as a number of retail shops and the FiRE + iCE Restaurant (see Dining). It's also the closest hotel to Heavenly's gondola, which gives skiers and sightseers a jaw-dropping view of the lake in its 12-minute journey from downtown to the slopes.

Also near the gondola is one of our favorite places, the Embassy Suites Lake Tahoe Resort (800-362-2779; 530-544-5400; $$–$$$; right). Just 50 feet from the nearest casino, it has an indoor atrium, indoor pool and hot tub, an exercise center, on-site restaurant and lounge. Cooked-to-order breakfast and happy hour are included in the rates.

The California side of South Lake Tahoe has many hotels and motels lining Hwy. 50. Among the best are two Best Western properties—The Timber Cove Lodge (800-528-1234; 530-541-6722; $–$$$), located on the beach; and Station House Inn (800-822-5953; 530-542-1101; $$–$$$), within walking distance of the casino area, on the California side of the border. The Sunterra Lake Tahoe Vacation Resort (530-541-3568; SS–$$$) right at the junction of Hwy. 50 and Ski Run Blvd. has condos right on the lake.

Two miles from the casinos, Inn By The Lake (800-877-1466; 530-542-0330; $–$$$; below left) sits almost at the shore (although on the wrong side of Hwy 50). It has 100 guest rooms—including nine suites with kitchens, but many of the regular guest rooms are large and have refrigerators—plus a free continental breakfast with enough selections to keep you full until lunch, heated pool, and bi-level hot tub. It's also one of the stops on the free shuttle to the slopes.

Embassy Vacation Resorts (800-362-2779; 530-541-6122; $$$–$$$$) is a 300-suite resort with timeshare condos and all the amenities. At the intersection of Hwy. 50 and Ski Run Boulevard, it is close to the lake, the ferry dock and Heavenly's slopes.

For the rustic-minded, try the Historic Camp Richardson Resort (800-544-1801; $$–$$$). The cabins have large fireplaces, spacious living rooms and full kitchens. Perfect for couples traveling together or families who enjoy various outdoor sports. Onsite sledding, snowshoeing, cross-country trails and wilderness sleigh rides complete this seasonal resort. The historic hotel and beachside inn provide more "civilized" accommodations. A similar mountain paradise can be found on the Nevada side at Zephyr Cove Resort (775-588-6644; $$–$$$). The beachfront resort offers mountain cabins set amidst the pines, guided snowmobiling tours, cross-country skiing, plus it's the home of the M.S. Dixie II paddlewheeler, which operates year-round.

Adjacent to the Lakeside Beach is the funky Royal Valhalla Motor Lodge (800-999-4104; 530-544-2233; $–$$$), some rooms with kitchens and most with wonderful lake views. Just two blocks from the casinos, it sits in a quiet neighborhood.

Lakeland Village (800-822-5969; 530-544-1685; $$–$$$$) has a hotel and condominiums on the lake with shuttlebus service to Heavenly and Kirkwood. The units range from studios to a lakefront four-bedroom, three-bath unit. For those who want a room 150 yards from Heavenly's California base, the Tahoe Seasons Resort, with 160 suites, has received good reviews from everyone locally (530-541-6700; $$–$$$$). Another possibility is the Holiday Inn Express (800-544-5288; 530-544-5900; $$–$$$$).

One for couples only: The Fantasy Inn (800-367-7736; 530-541-4200; $$$–$$$$) has about 60 rooms designed for romance and a wedding chapel. Each room has one bed in a choice of several shapes (round, heart-shaped, water or regular mattress, king-size), a jetted tub for two, an in-room music system with 30 channels, adjustable peach-colored lighting and showers with double shower heads. Sixteen of the rooms have themes, such as Rain Forest (plants and rattan decor), Caesar's Indulgence (a sexy black decor), and Romeo and Juliet (the honeymoon suite). Theme suites are in the $245–$295 range. Ask about special ski and/or wedding package rates.

Big timbers, a huge stone fireplace and a soaring great room welcome guests at Black Bear Inn Bed & Breakfast (530-433-4451 or 877-232-7466, $$$-$$$$). Five guestrooms in the main inn and three intimate cottages on the one-acre campus all have fireplaces, king beds and TV/VCR/DVDs; cabins also have kitchenettes—and guests in these can opt to have breakfast delivered. Rates include a full breakfast, afternoon refreshments and use of an outdoor hot tub; robes provided.

Next door is the Deerfield Lodge (888-757-3337, $$$-$$$$) a one-time motel that's been renovated and upgraded to boutique status, providing such amenities as concierge service, inroom fireplaces; slate baths, with rain forest showers and Jacuzzis; and goose down comforters, pillowtop mattresses and pillows. A continental breakfast is provided.

Smack dab on the lake, the Lakeshore Lodge & Spa (800-448-4577, 541-2180, $$-$$$) has rooms and suites, some with kitchens or kitchenettes, as well as condominiums. A continental breakfast is included; and there's a full-service day spa on the premises.

Accommodations Legend: (double room) $$$$–$200+; $$$–$141–$200; $$–$81–$140; $–$80 and less.