The Aurora Bar and Lounge in the Hotel Alyeska has a somewhat lively atmosphere in the bar, where skiers can watch sports on TV. Patrons may play the piano, sing and dance, and make the evening as lively as they want. The lounge is quieter, with a stone fireplace and comfortable sofas and chairs. For après-ski, head to the Sitzmark Bar at the base of Chair 3 for burgers and live bands on Friday and Saturday nights during ski season. The Double Musky and Chair 5 also have taverns.

Anchorage has a highly developed nightlife and cul-tural scene, a legacy of pipeline days, long winter nights, and generous doses of oil-patch money. The city reportedly had an orchestra before it had paved streets.

We love wacky watering holes that have unique character. Anchorage has two great ones, but unfortunately, one is closed most of the winter. For loud rock and dancing try Chilkoot Charlie’s, 2435 Spenard Rd., "where we cheat the other guy and pass the savings on to you." (They sell T-shirts with that slogan—it’s a great souvenir.) Chilkoot’s is huge—six bars with about 30 beers on tap, two stages (the night we were there during Fur Rondy, one stage had a rockin' band and the other had the Fur Bikini contest), pool tables and games, and sports on TV (though it's impossible to hear the audio). Generally, the ratio of men to women is about seven to one, and any attire goes—one February night, we saw people dressed in gym shorts; others in business suits and cocktail dresses. The other unique nightclub is Mr. Whitekeys’ Fly By Night Club, famed for its Spam appetizers and satirical, summertime Whale Fat Follies show. The club does a "Christmas in Spenard" show, but after that, it's closed for the winter, much to our disappointment. (We've seen the summer show; it's a hoot.)

Humpy’s on Sixth Avenue has 36 beers on tap and occasional live entertainment. For quieter dancing and a slightly older clientele try Legends at the Sheraton, Whale’s Tail at the Hotel Captain Cook, or the lounge at the Golden Lion Best Western. For country music, head to Last Frontier Bar or Buckaroo Club.

For theater, opera, drama and movies, buy the local newspaper (Anchorage Daily News). There’s a Friday morning entertainment tabloid that’s very helpful. You may be surprised at the visiting artists and productions at the Alaska Center for the Performing Arts downtown. For recorded information, call (907) 263-2901.